Holidays come in different shapes and sizes, and one of these is the one in which you can mix sightseeing and busy-ness with some rest and relaxation. Not all our Tasmanian holiday will be like this, but our first couple of days here have been.
Day 1 was spent travelling in the morning – and it was all beautifully uneventful, which is exactly what you want from plane travel! My brother Ian picked us up on schedule at Hobart airport at 1pm. It was a glorious, clear, sunny, calm day so first stop was the Docks for fish and chips. You can’t visit Hobart without having fish and chips at the Docks and a place named Fish Frenzy filled the bill nicely!
Ian offered us a little sightseeing tour so we visited the gorgeous Arthur’s Circus (a must-visit place for me whenever I come here) and Errol Flynn Beach (new to me, but for an ex-film archivist, it was a must too). Tasmania is, in case you didn’t know it, called home by some very famous people! We were tickled though that the “history” of Errol Flynn and the beach comprises more “maybes” than “definitelys”. Still, the more you put “maybes” out there, the more chance you have of people popping up to tell you “definitely yes” or “definitely no”.
We then opted for a quiet afternoon, chatting and negotiating sleeping arrangements with our generous hosts, Ian, Helen and Oscar, and were fed a delicious chicken green curry dinner. Suitably refreshed, and with stars in our eyes, the adventurous ones of the group decided to join the night’s Aurora spotters, because the previous night had seen some stellar spotting. We had quite a Hobart-by-night tour: Bellerive, Mt Nelson and the very chilly Mt Wellington where spotters were in such abundance we could barely find a park. Our chauffeur lan was accosted by one group of European tourists who needed to know where was south. All very confusing I suppose when they would be used to looking north for the lights. Unfortunately, our spotting was in vain. We were prepared for this, given the spotting “forecast” for the night, though we discovered the next day that some activity had been spied later in the night. Oh well, we gave it a good shot – and the adventure, as they say, is half the fun!
After much discussion regarding options – there’s so much to do here – it was decided that Day 2 would be our TMAG day. TMAG is the Tasmanian Museum and Art Gallery where my brother is a history curator. We wandered through various sections of the museum but we focused on two of Ian’s exhibitions. The first and most recent one, The Suspense is Awful, is TMAG’s contribution to World War One centenary commemorations. The exhibition title comes from a letter from a family seeking confirmation or not of the death of their son, Stan Burge. It’s a great exhibition, focusing on the role Tasmanians played in World War I and the impact the war had on Tasmanian life. It includes stories about indigenous as well as non-indigenous servicemen, nurses, an interned German, the attempt to introduce conscription, and organisations like the Red Cross. There was even a small exhibit devoted to two groups (one the precursor of Legacy) who worked to help “deserving” (their words) soldiers after the war. We’re not sure what “deserving” meant, but presumably non-drinking, non-gambling, good church-going men fit the bill nicely!
Being a reader, I enjoyed the diaries and postcards, though it does take time to read them! One display case is devoted to a soldier named Frank Bethune. His words sound shocking at first, until you realise that he was trying to downplay the horror for his little boy, Angus, who was 7 years old when Frank left:
… we are having a very exciting time here. The German shells knock dirt over me sometimes, but so far I have not been hit. It is great fun all the same (9/12/1916)
… soon I expect I will be shooting Fritz’s by the score, so that will be good hunting won’t it” (Belgium 15/9/17)
… It is much nicer than the newspapers say.
It was, in fact, not very nice for Frank Bethune, the Fighting Padre, who returned home badly injured and was frail until he died in 1942.
It’s a really thoughtful exhibition that focuses on the human side, the personal experiences, rather than on the heroics, the military strategies, and political implications.
The other exhibition we really wanted to see was Parrawa! Parrawa! Go Away!, an exhibition Ian co-curated with an indigenous curator about early contact in Tasmania between indigenous people and the settlers. The main part of the exhibition centres on the Black War which occurred between settlers/farmers and indigenous people in Tasmania from the mid 1820s to early 1830s, and George Augustus Robinson‘s “friendly mission” in which he was to persuade Aboriginal people to agree to relocate, and so end the hostilities. Robinson tried hard, it seems, to build up a relationship with the local people but was doomed really. How could it have been otherwise when the settlers didn’t understand why “they wish to have their lands to themselves”, while “they” can’t understand why “We can’t walk through our country no more”. It is difficult presenting an “even” picture of the story, when only one side is documented in any depth. When the indigenous “side” is documented it is, of course, by the settlers, including, particularly, by Robinson himself, who reported what indigenous people told him. I don’t think it’s only us who think that Ian and his team have managed to pull off an exhibition which tells this powerful, but politically charged story with warmth and intelligence.
The exhibition concluded with video interviews with indigenous and non-indigenous Tasmanians today. An inspired way to link then and now, and to encourage thought in exhibition goers as we leave. I was a little astonished why the historian who, when asked “what is the impact [of the conflict] on Tasmania today?”, responded that “I don’t like to think about the past”!
Somehow, we managed to do all this and be home by 3.30pm – time to put the feet up, read, relax and start thinking about tomorrow’s adventures.
Some documentary stills …
Thanks Len and Sue,
Glad you arrived safely and are with family…. always a good thing, I had fun thinking about ya’ll looking for the Aurora. I remember trying to spot one when we were in Alaska. As you say half the fun is the anticipation. We got lucky one night and due to Carter’s persistence, got a little bit of a good show. AND of course we found out the next day that others close by but in a different location managed to get an awe inspiring display that went on most the night. Time and position appears to be everything in catching those lovely dancing lights. I am sorry ya’ll got no show but very happy you tried!
The displays at the museum sound educational and as always puts a face on the history of a horrible time for most of the world. Damn those trenches. I don’t know how anyone survived and I am sure many brought home horrors in their head that they could never escape. Maybe if we had to look at more history, people would be less likely to involve themselves in warring conflicts. Instead we go to drones and flying far above people and dropping bombs that may hit their targets but often also wound, maim, or kill the innocent. Forgive the rant. I am just an ole hippie at heart. =)
ANYWAY, enjoy your trip and again I thank you for sharing.
Trudy for Trudy and Carter
Hi Trudy … we’re glad you got to see SOME lights at least. Thanks as ever for your reflective comments on our post.
When you read the next post, you will see how often we thought of you as we were enjoying that day.
Sounds like a great start to your travels. Well done Ian on the exhibitions, they sound excellent. Cant wait to get to Tassie again.
They are Kate, the exhibition’s I mean … Next time you come here I’ll try to set up a personalised tour for you using my contacts! I think you’d enjoy the insights.