Although yesterday proved pretty adventurous, this day felt like the real start of the trip. Our first stop, after an early-ish breakfast, was the Australian Arid Lands Botanic Garden. We arrived there at 8am. (You know what tours are like!) It was a little brisk but clear and sunny after the wild day preceding it so we were all happy. We were given an hour, so Len and I opted to do the 45-minute Regional Walk, which showcases plants by, yes, regions, such as Flinders Ranges and West Coast Mallee. It was a pleasant walk, and we did see some interesting plants, but we didn’t have time to linger very much over them.
Then it was off north, first crossing the Stuart Highway, which is apparently the longest transcontinental highway in the world – and the road we took with Evan and Hannah when we went to the centre in 2000. This trip, however, goes east of that highway, through the famous Pichi Richi pass in the southern Flinders Ranges. The name Pichi Richi is believed to come from the region’s being a traditional centre for the production of pituri, a mixture of leaves and ash which is chewed as a stimulant by Indigenous Australians.
Our morning tea stop was the lovely, historic Quorn with its 1870s-and-onwards buildings, including the Railway Station. The original railway line from Port Augusta to Quorn was opened in 1879. It was then gradually extended north to Farina in 1882, Marree in 1884, Oodnadatta in 1890 and Alice Springs in 1929. This railway line became known as the “Ghan line”. A volunteer group now runs team trains between Quorn and Port Augusta along what is the longest surviving track, 39 kms, of the old narrow gauge Ghan railway.
Morning tea was served in the park by our organised and able tour guide and driver who unpacked two tables, and clearly labelled bags containing the necessities. The food included treats brought from the Arid Gardens, quandong cheesecake for the others, and a Iittle box for me containing an apple, four luscious strawberries, and a few little coconut and apricot balls. I knew then that I was going to be nicely catered for. Oh and there was also a chocolate birthday cake made by driver Brian’s sister for his birthday on Saturday. (Funnily enough, though, this actual day happened to be tour guide Greg’s birthday!)
Next stop was the first of several ruins we were to see during out trip. If we didn’t already know that this is hard country where many try and too many fail we did by the end of the trip. Anyhow, this first stop was Kanyaka Station, which was established by Hugh Proby in February 1852. This is very dry country so it’s sadly ironic that Proby died in a flashflood falling from his horse in August 1852. The station grew to be one of the largest in the district with 70 families living there, until drought brought about its demise. By 1867 it was down to 15 single men.
From here we drove through various other towns including Hawker, which was established around 1880, and regarded as a gateway to Flinders Ranges. These ranges, which I should have described before, comprise a discontinuous mountain range which is around 500 million years old, largely composed of folded and faulted sediments of the Adelaide Geosyncline, and is 430kms long. St Mary’s is the highest peak in Flinders at only 1170 m. No wonder those from other continents laugh when we point out our “mountains”. But, you know, just as we shrink as we get older, so do mountains! And Australia’s mountains are among the worlds oldest. Our tour guide told us that he’d heard that the Flinders are likely to be the next “tourist thing”. We need to get back again properly, we decided, ahead of the rush …
And then it was time for lunch at the famous Prairie Hotel at Parachilna. Name means “Place of Peppermint Gum Trees”. Wonderful bush food, with a glass of wine! Only meal where a glass was included which says something about cold cuts including emu pate, camel salami, smoked kangaroo, and lovely creamy wild goat’s cheese, with other meats and a tasty fresh salad. These were served with bread (including a very decent gluten-free bread for me), balsamic vinegar, olive oil and a home-prepared dukkah. Not everyone was familiar with dukkah, and some felt that it was “not salad weather”, which I suppose is understandable if you come from sub-tropical Queensland and the temperature hadn’t reached 20°C! For me, though, it was a delicious and beautifully appropriate lunch meal.
It was around here that our devices went off the grid! No more smart phones or iPads to distract us from the business at hand – sightseeing! But no opportunity to check facts, the forecast, or emails from family either.
After lunch we passed through more towns, mostly via dirt road by now, including the planned mining town of Leigh Creek (with its N-S facing houses and its promise to return all to “nature” when mining operations finished, which will apparently be soon), the remote town (if you can call it that) of Lyndhurst for refuelling, and the ghost town of Farina where we stopped for our afternoon cuppa. Farina was fascinating. It originally had the poetic name – not! – of Government Gums, but was renamed Farina which was appropriate given the aim was for it to be an agricultural centre based around wheat. This was around the 1870s, and although agriculture was never very successful, it struggled on for a century before the last residents finally left. There were some lovely, poignant, interpretive displays, including one panel titled “It was a town when I lived there” (quoting the last postmistress).
We finally pulled into Marree around 4.30pm or so, after a very interesting day.
Take 1 … Cut!
The Flinders Ranges, which flanked much of today’s trip is a very picturesque region, so it’s not surprising that it has featured in many Aussie films, even if they weren’t exactly set in the region. The films include Bitter Springs (near Quorn), Kangaroo (Flinders Ranges), Robbery Under Arms (Wilpena Pound), Sundowners (many scenes in Quorn), Sunday Too Far Away, Gallipoli (train scenes at Quorn Railway Station and the Pichi Richi Pass), Shiralee (1986 version) (around Quorn), Rabbit Proof Fence (final scenes around Parachilna and Lake Torrens), The Tracker (north Flinders Ranges), One Night the Moon (Hawker and Cradock), Wolf Creek (Flinders Ranges), and Beautiful Kate (Hawker).
Of course, it’s not just movie makers who have been attracted to the region. Artists have too, with South Australian artist Hans Heysen being particularly associated with the area.
Wildlife sightings
We saw several emus (including, most excitingly, an emu dad with three partially grown chicks), a few kangaroos, crested pigeons, a wedge-tailed eagle, and various other birds. Unfortunately, except for the crested pigeon, we were in the coach travelling for these sightings and couldn’t get decent shots. You win some, you lose some!
Quote of the day
Outback Spirit’s packing list said swimming costumes were optional, but I’m modest so I brought mine. I want to be able to swim in Lake Eyre. (Tour group member)
Now, today’s pics …
Driving on the Outback Highway / Oodnadatta Track towards Maree …
A great post worth waiting for including the pics. Glad your dietary requirements are being so well catered for, Sue – sounds like our Bill Peach Tour which almost became embarrassing if it weren’t for the fact the meals were so enjoyable.
Was Kanyaka Station within or without the Goyder Line? That Line caused so many problems – all for the sake of rushing to conclusions on one year’s weather instead of testing over a few years weather.
Loved your quote of the day.
Enjoy what is left of your holiday!
Glad you enjoyed it Mum. As I recollect Kanyaka station, like most of the ruins we saw, were north of Goyder’s line. On our return yesterday we passed some farms just north. The tour guide said that they only get around one good year in four but when they do they are excellent! Those farmers are doing well he said! But will the Goyder’s line move south as the weather warms?
Hi Sue and Len!
What an intriguing selected filmography to correspond with the locations you are visiting, and with some significant and quite iconic titles reflecting our Australian culture and history! Rabbit Proof Fence, Bitter Springs, Tracker and One Night the Moon for instance all showcasing aspects of the impact of European settlement on Australian Indigenous people, and, for example, Gallipoli and The Shiralee highlighting positive depictions ” Australian values and character, would you say(?) of the little Aussie battler and the ANZAC spirit respectively. (I haven’t seen The Shiralee for decades so it’s a bit hazy in my ‘off the cuff’ memory) That landscape in your movie on the road to Maree certainly looks desolate to me… Lovely that they are catering so well for Sue. That food sounds beautiful! What to see all those birds and especially the father emu with his chicks – they sound as though they’d make a nice image for a Fathers’ Day card, if one could get a picture of them! Hope you get to see and photograph more wedge tails! Enjoy your dip in the lake and look forward to hearing more about it!
Thanks Mary. Love your comment re the Father’s Day card. I would so loved to have been able to photograph them. In a car we could have stopped, but probably still wouldn’t have got s great photo, though Len might have got some video. The landscape sure was desolate in places though greener in places too than normal. The cattle and sheep stations will have a better year this year looks like!
Thanks Sue,
and sorry for my typo earlier – I can only beg off that I was responding on my phone and typing with one finger! ‘What to see all those birds….’ was meant to read ‘What fun to see all those birds…’ 🙂 Yes, I thought you would have photographed the emus if you could have…. but under the circumstances you’ll have to depend on memory and the rest of us on imagination! Never mind. Glad that the landscape is greener in some places and to hear that the stock stations are having a better year. That is something for which to be thankful! Cheers!
Oh, don’t worry about typos in blog comments Mary. We knew what you meant and, anyhow, we understand only too well the challenge of commenting with various devices.
So many memories! Of course we didn’t go everywhere you’ve been, but I recognise a fair few of those photos (and stories). Envious of the quandong cheesecake! Excited to hear about your future skinnydipping in Lake Eyre… 😉
I’m envious of the quandong cheesecake too, but I was very lucky with my treat so am certainly not complaining. I’m sure you do remember some of the places. Now I’d love to see your photos again Hannah.
As for skinny dipping, what s shame we weren’t able to drive right to the lake’s edge!
Much more fun cycling!
For you, I’m sure, Ian! Not for us!