Wah, the last full day of our trip. We had waited so long for this trip, having booked last August/September, and now it was nearly over! We would all have loved an extra day at Seven Spirit Bay, and are envious of next year’s tour participants who will get just that in the revamped itinerary.
Nipa Palms Tour
However, it wasn’t quite all over as we had one more activity – a choice of fishing or the Nipa Palms Tour. You know what we chose. Once again we were the small group, comprising just 8. What are Nipa Palms you might wonder, as we did, but be patient because all will soon be revealed.
First, we had to drive there which took about half an hour. We were told to look out for three introduced, now feral animals:
- Banteng: the domesticated form was first introduced to Australia for Port Essington but when the British left, the banteng were released and allowed to form a feral population. They have never strayed far from here, since then, and apparently all now live within Garig Gunak Barlu National Park.
- Timor ponies: the famous Man from Snowy River’s horse had “a touch of Timor pony”.
- Sambar deer: an introduced Asian deer, for hunting I think?
That’s what we were looking for en route. What we actually saw, though, was:
- Banteng (yes, we saw a couple)
- Redwing parrot and other birds
- The white-shell laden bower of a Great Bowerbird
It was an interesting drive, but of course it’s always nice to get out and explore on foot. The Nipa Palm area is at Trepang Creek – fresh water, heavy with tannin. We parked a little away from the water and walked in. It’s a unique area containing several rare plants. Outback Spirit would like to build a boardwalk here and is seeking permission from National Parks. It’s so remote this wouldn’t result in its being overrun – and it would make exploring easier! Anyhow, here is what we saw before, at and after the creek itself:
- Aristicum Speciosum or Mangrove Fern, a rare plant that doesn’t look much like a fern.
- Melaleuca Leucadendra or Paperbark, including one with an epiphyte on its trunk. Some of the paperbarks here were unusually tall.
- Nypa Fruticans or Nipa Palms, which only grow in three places in Australia, through is common in Asia. Their trunks are in the mud/under water, with just the leaves above. They are used for hats, thatched roofs, and even drinks (in the Philippines, for example).
- Bombax Ceiba (or Sidica?), a member of the Mallow family: there were two in a clearing because they apparently need male and female specimens near each other.
- Leichhardt Pine (or Neolamarckia cadamba?)
We all greatly enjoyed exploring this area. It felt so special to be able to wander around such a remote, unique habitat. Birder Chris was thrilled to see a Royal Spoonbill fly overhead.
On our return we stopped at another part of Trepang Creek – for a muesli bar and water stop. While the creek was more lagoon-like at the Nipa Palms site, here it was a real creek.
We had a little backtrack on our return journey when birder Chris spotted a folded piece of paper on the road, and started searching her person furiously for her bird list. It wasn’t on her! Yes, there it was back on the road, complete with pen attached. A pen-bird we decided! How did that happen? And how lucky she saw it!
Lunch
Before lunch, a group photo was suggested. Two of the young Lodge women did a wonderful job handling a variety of phones, tablets and cameras. The modern traveller!
Lunch comprised a sit-down meal of pan-fried chicken thigh fillet with a small fresh salad and some chips – relatively light but very tasty – followed by brownies and gf friands.
Seven Spirit Bay Lodge
On our first day, lodge manager Nick gave us a bit of a history of the lodge. Built in 1990, it was one of the first luxury eco-lodges in the outback. It’s located on the western side of Port Essington, in the Garig Gunak Barlu National Park on the Cobourg Peninsula. You can only get to it by boat from Black Point, or by plane using the lodge’s private airstrip at Vashon Head. It’s had a few owners, and has also had non-operational times, but then Outback Spirit bought it in 2015 and did a major upgrade, keeping though the original spirit (ha!) of the place, I believe. (The land leased from the Northern Land Council.)
I asked Nick about the meaning of the name. It refers not to “spirits” but to elements … he gave me a sheet on it, but I’ve put it in my suitcase, from which I’ve now been separated, so will add that info later!
Flying out
For our flight out we were divided into two groups, with us and three other couples being on the second flight. The trip involved a 30-mins drive to the Seven Spirit Bay International Airport, and a 40-mins flight to Darwin. The first group left at 12:30, with us due to leave at 2:30. We eight spent a lovely time, mostly lounging in one of the lodge’s lounge areas, chatting, reading, resting – while apparently the first group took the opportunity to explore the esplanade in Darwin!
Around 2.15pm, Nick received a call from the pilot that he would be 30 minutes late – something, to do with freight – so he generously offered a free refreshment, intending a wine or beer. However, one enterprising person asked for ice-cream. Three of us took the wine option – unfortunately ice-cream is off my diet – and the rest the ice-cream.
End of the tour
Our group didn’t get to the hotel until 5:15pm, and we were due to meet for drinks at 6pm. I think we did well to make it by 6:15pm. Having had a free afternoon wine, I eschewed alcohol for a refreshing glass of mineral water!
Around 6.30pm, we all walked 700 metres along the esplanade to Char Restaurant where we had a wonderful, jovial final meal. I particularly enjoyed my entree, a new dish for me called Numus. Asian in origin, I believe. I would liken it to ceviche.
Anyhow, thanks were passed to driver Ian who had done a wonderful job in keeping us comfortable and entertained, more photos were taken, emails shared, and many hugs given. We’d happily do more Outback Spirit trips to places that aren’t easily accessible to us by car. It’s a great company – and seems to attract great passengers, mostly, it seems from our two experiences, in the post retirement age. Funny that!
Note: We will try to wrap up our 6 Darwin days in 2 or 3 posts in the coming week.
Today’s pics
The stills …
The movies …
Nipa Palms Tour …
So a banteng is a water buffalo? Banteng is an Indonesian word, so I think it probably came from the same place as the Sambar Deer.
Oops sorry Lisa, no, I probably should have made that clearer, the Asiatic water buffalo that as you clearly know is also found in the Top End is different to the Banteng. They are both in the cattle family (Bovids) but the Water Buffalo is the Bubalus genus, while the Banteng is the Bos one
And you’re right, Sambar deer and Bantengs are both Indonesian. The Banteng was specifically brought over for meat for the Port Essington (Victoria) settlement. I’m not so sure about the Deer. If Ian told us I didn’t hear it, and I didn’t think to ask him. I looked up Wikipedia and if I understand correctly they were introduced for hunting sport? As early as the 1860s in Victoria, Wikipedia says. I know buffalo are/were hunted as sport but they are originally brought in for food. The deer though seems to be a different story.
Okay! The Banteng in the picture appeared to have a 7 on one white bum check and a 1 on the other. Was this natural? I know ya’ll said the white patches seemed unusual but I found the numbers even strangers.
Love those turkey flowers – they are beautiful! Loved the honey-eater and the information about the nectar. The shot of the tidal flats looked like nature’s abstract art. The group picture was very well done – and looks like a good group. I noticed lots of laughter in the videos and it sounds like a good humored group that had a fine time and enjoyed each other’s company as well as the landscape and the flora and fauna!
Great videos, as usual!
Thanks Trudy – but do you need glasses or something? I don’t see numbers on the Banteng’s bum. Or maybe there are some scratches on your screen!!
I agree with you regarding the tidal flats.
Yes, it was a good humoured group. You probably had to be good-humoured to give a tour like this a go.
I do have glasses. =) The numbers show up clearer in the video. The seven is very clear, at least to me. but the one is not so much. At one time I even thought the one could have been a four. Perhaps just natural markings in the white area?
Oh well not really important, just thought it was a bit interesting.
I’m guessing natural markings Trudy. You do look at our pics in such detail, I know. I’m always impressed by what you see.
Love that little international airport! 🙂
It was fun Mary … love the outback sense of humour.