Arnhem Land Trip 2018, Day 8: On water and land in Maningrida

As at Murwangi, we were divided into 2 groups, one boating in the morning and the other doing land visits in Maningrida, and then swapping for the afternoon. We were in the morning boating group. Now, as would happen at Seven Spirit Bay – some literary foreshadowing here, which I can do because of our enforced delayed posting! – our timing was driven by the tides. Our departure from the Lodge was therefore set for 8am, which meant breakfast at 7am (wait till you read our Seven Spirit Bay start!) so we could be on the boat at 8.30am. We, the morning group, would finish around 11.30am, so the next group could be on the boats by noon to finish around 3pm.

Our breakfast, as at Murwangi, and all accommodations in fact, included a hot breakfast, all cooked to order except at Nhulunbuy and Darwin where it was buffet style. I’ve been choosing this option: one poached egg, one rasher of bacon, and, where available, some sautéed mushrooms, with a slice of gf toast. The poached eggs were cooked beautifully in every place. Breakfast was served on the covered verandah, the only dining area they have really for larger groups. Loved these outdoor places though the mozzies did give us some trouble, particularly here. More on that later, perhaps!

A bad day’s fishing beats a good day’s work every time (Slim Dusty)

Our guide was Andy, he of yesterday’s crab pic, supported by a delightful TO named Stu. It was lovely seeing their – as far as I could tell anyhow – easy relationship. Two boats went out for each session, and we had 5 on our boat (pre-allocated the night before.) We launched from the Liverpool River estuarine area in Maningrida, which is located on the Arafura Sea. Andy and Stu began by showing us some of the area’s history, including and old shell midden and ceremonial area, and a barge landing-place built right in the middle of the ceremonial area! No wonder TOs are cautious these days about granting access permission!

They also took us on a bit of a bird and croc spotting tour en-route to the fishing spots. Stu, not surprisingly given this was his country, spotted bird after bird after bird, which thrilled birder (not a twitcher, she says) Chris, but we were all impressed when he spotted a mangrove monitor from the middle of the river. We couldn’t see it, despite his pointing, until we were about a metre or so away! How embarrassing!!

We started fishing in the Liverpool River (which is about 2km plus wide near its mouth) and then moved to Three Ways where the river meets the Tomkinson River and Middle Creek. While still in the Liverpool River Andy landed a Threadfin Salmon, which he put back because it was too big for the esky! Hmm … as someone suggested, you could cut off the head. Maybe chef didn’t need Threadfins! Still, we were there for the experience not the eating. (Birder Chris tried casting at this spot but with no luck)

In Middle Creek, Don and Len tried trolling and casting, and got many Barramundi bites with their casting, but landed none though Don got close. When it was time to go, Andy couldn’t resist casting once more and yes, you’re right, he caught a Barra! But it was a little small so back it went.

It was all good fun, though Barbara and I didn’t fish. Maybe that’s why our boat was the least successful – haha. Only two edible-sized barras (55+cm) were brought back from the 4 boat trips but nearly everyone else caught at least one.

And our critter spotting made up for what we lacked in fish: three crocs sunning themselves on banks; the aforementioned beautiful soft green-coloured mangrove monitor, and many birds including egrets, kites, sea eagles and, to our birder’s delight, the rare (to spot) chestnut rail. Stu flummoxed us all by spotting one on the bank. Andy brought the boat close in, and Stu pointed, and pointed, and pointed but could any of us see it? Not on your Nelly. However, Chris redeemed herself by spotting another on the banks, from our rather fast-moving boat. We were all impressed by that.

Then the land segment

Lunch, eaten outside the Arts Centre, comprised freshly made sausage rolls, plus wraps, for the non-gf people, a gf wrap for Chris, and a lovely fresh chicken salad for me. There was cake too I think but I don’t recollect what as I didn’t partake.

Maningrida Arts and Cultural Centre

Like the women weavers at Ramingining (it took us a while to get that pronunciation down pat ), Dhuwa women Doreen and Kathleen (I think was her name) at this centre demonstrated basket weaving, using pandanus. They also showed us how they made string from the white-flowering kurrajong. So interesting – and so hard on the hands and skin.

This centre too had some lovely art, including baskets and mats, bark paintings, sculptured mimih figures, textiles, and some seed-based jewellery. I wanted to support each centre but in the end it became overwhelming, and we had another centre to visit. I did buy myself a gidgee gidgee seed necklace, about which more another day. More foreshadowing!

Babbarra Woman’s Centre

Named for secret women’s place (a billabong I think she said), Babbarra started off as a women’s refuge in the late 1980s, but is now a textile arts centre, operating as a social enterprise, for women. The women, who come from more than 12 language groups in the Maningrida region, create designs from their own stories for screen printing and linocuts. They were lovely.  I should have bought something here – friend Barbara had told me to be prepared – but in the end I was overwhelmed by choice. However, it is possible to buy on-line so all’s not completely lost.

The problem was that we had decent Internet connection there, which distracted us all somewhat. It’s where we managed to get our Day 5 post out – just a matter of pressing “publish” on a prepared post.

Dining on Barra

We thought it might be baked beans for us that night as our whole group had only caught two usable fish, but we learnt that you don’t eat barra the night you catch it, that it’s best if cleaned and then rested for a day or so. Whew, we could eat the previous group’s fish! Pity the next group though! Haha. Seriously, it was barra night, and the fish had been caught, we believe, by the resident fishermen.

Dessert was Portuguese Tart, for the non-gf, and flesh fruit for the rest of us.

Today’s images

The stills

Please note that the light was challenging on the boat …

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Fishing on the MV Cadell …